Fine Lines Under the Eyes: Which Treatment Can Improve Them?

By Daebbang

I wrote this article to answer a question sent in by readers. If you send me a skin concern you are curious about, I will look for the evidence and put it together in an article.

“I have started to notice a few fine lines under my eyes. What treatment should I get to improve them?”

The short answer: the right treatment depends on the type of wrinkle. Lines that appear only when you smile, fine lines that show even when your face is at rest, and an under-eye area that looks shadowed because it has become hollow rather than wrinkled all have different causes, so the treatments that help them are also different[1]. No single treatment solves every under-eye concern.

In this article, I will explain how to tell which type of wrinkle you have, how the treatments to consider for each type work and what research has found, recovery and side effects, and when you should see a doctor before choosing any treatment.

First, What Type of Wrinkle Do You Have?

The skin around the eyes is the thinnest and most frequently moving skin in the body. In its thinnest areas it is only about 0.2 mm thick. The muscle that closes the eye (the orbicularis oculi) sits right under the skin, and there is almost no fat in between[2]. Wrinkles form from a combination of sun damage, a habit of squinting, constant eye movement, age, and frequently rubbing the eyes because of allergies or other reasons[2].

In front of a mirror, try sorting your lines into three types.

1. There are no lines when your face is relaxed, but fan-shaped lines appear at the outer corners of your eyes only when you smile or squint → These are “dynamic wrinkles,” where the skin folds as the muscle moves. The lines at the outer corners of the eyes, commonly called crow’s feet (lateral canthal lines), are caused mainly by the movement of the orbicularis oculi muscle[3].
2. Fine lines are visible in the skin texture under your eyes even when your face is at rest → These fine lines form as the skin becomes thinner and loses elasticity. They are the result of built-up UV damage and, with age, an increase in the enzymes that break down collagen (protein fibers that support the skin) along with a decrease in the amount of new collagen being made[2].
3. The area under your eyes looks hollow and shadowed more than wrinkled → This is not a wrinkle problem but a loss of volume[4].

In reality, two or three of these types are often mixed together. That is why, at an examination, the type of wrinkle, skin thickness and elasticity, and the under-eye fat and support of the lower eyelid are all looked at together before a treatment is chosen[1].

Choosing a Treatment at a Glance

The evidence for each treatment is explained one by one below.

Lines at the Outer Corners When You Smile: Botulinum Toxin

How it works: It is an injection that temporarily blocks the nerve signal telling a muscle to move, so the muscle contracts less. In the United States, it is approved to “temporarily improve” moderate to severe crow’s feet lines associated with orbicularis oculi activity[3].

What the research shows: In a randomized study comparing 445 people, 30 days after injection, 66.7% had their crow’s feet lines when smiling rated as “none” or “mild” by physician assessment, much higher than 6.7% with placebo[5]. This study was sponsored by the manufacturer. Because the approval is for “temporary improvement,” you need repeat injections to keep the effect[3].

Best suited for: Dynamic wrinkles that form when you smile or squint. It is also used when the muscle just below the eye bulges noticeably when you smile[1].

Side effects and cautions:

• In the clinical trials for approval, eyelid swelling was reported in 1% of people after injection at the outer corners of the eyes[3].
• There is a warning about side effects caused by the drug spreading beyond the injection site. These can appear anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks after injection[3]. That is why you should get it from a doctor who knows the anatomy around the eyes well.
• Injections for fine lines just below the lower eyelid need extra caution. In a small study of 15 people, the lines improved, but 40% had a change in which the eye opened wider[6].
• The prescribing information includes a caution about dry eye after injection, and there are also reports that tear production may decrease after toxin injections around the eyes[3, 7]. If you usually have dry eye, tell your doctor beforehand.
• You should not get injections if there is an infection at the planned injection site[3].

Fine Lines Visible Even at Rest: Lasers, Radiofrequency, and Skin Boosters

These three work in different ways, but they share the same goal: stimulating the dermis inside the skin so that collagen is made again (Figure 1). Rather than showing results all at once like toxin, they usually improve skin texture over several sessions[8, 9, 10].

Fractional Laser

How it works: This laser makes very thin, column-shaped tiny injuries close together in the skin. The untouched skin in between helps with healing, so the skin is rebuilt and firmed. There are ablative lasers (e.g., carbon dioxide [CO2] laser), which remove a very thin part of the skin surface, and non-ablative lasers, which leave the surface intact and deliver only heat.

What the research shows:

• In a randomized study that used a fractional CO2 laser on fine lines around the eyes in 30 Asian people, the lines improved after 3 months regardless of the treatment mode[11].
• In a randomized study of 68 people who received 3 to 5 treatments for wrinkles around the eyes with either a non-ablative laser or another heat-based device, wrinkle scores improved with both methods. Across both groups combined, about 80% returned to work and social activities two days after treatment[8].

Side effects and cautions: In Asian skin, the most common side effect is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, in which the skin turns darker after treatment. Getting treatments at lower intensity, in more sessions, spaced further apart can reduce the risk[12]. Ablative lasers may carry a greater risk of this[13]. In a study of 9 Chinese people who received one full-face ablative laser treatment, pigmentation remained in 55.5% at 1 month and 11.1% at 6 months, and the researchers said the roles of ablative and non-ablative lasers in Asian people need to be reconsidered[13]. In a study that looked back at 856 non-ablative laser treatments in Korean people, the side-effect rate was 5.0% (including long-lasting redness in 1.8% and pigmentation in 1.1%), and all side effects were temporary[14]. I explain in detail why dark marks form in my article on post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation<!– INTERNAL-LINK: replace with en version of WP post (en id 940317) –>.

Radiofrequency and Eye-Area Radiofrequency

How it works: This treatment uses radiofrequency heat energy to warm the inside of the skin, causing collagen to tighten and stimulating new collagen to form[15]. Some devices deliver heat from the skin surface, and others deliver radiofrequency directly into the skin through tiny needles (microneedle RF).

What is eye-area radiofrequency? It is a method in which a small tip designed for the eyelids and the area around the eyes is attached to a radiofrequency device that delivers heat from the skin surface. Because the eye itself could be injured, this was hard to use on the eyelids in the past. However, a study found that the small eye tip of the Thermage device (0.25 cm²) can be used safely on the eyelids as well when it is used together with eye shields[16].

Representative examples include Thermage eye and Eye Volnewmer. These product names are examples to aid understanding; they are not meant to recommend or compare specific products.

• Thermage eye: This is the common name for treatment with the eye tip of the Thermage device. The intended use in the U.S. FDA 510(k) document includes “Non-invasive treatment of periorbital wrinkles and rhytids including upper and lower eyelids” (based on the 2018 Thermage CPT device document)[17, 18]. Most studies on the lower eyelid were done with this device’s eye tip.
• Eye Volnewmer: Volnewmer is a radiofrequency device made by a Korean company, and it was reported to have received Korean manufacturing approval in 2022[19]. There is research on fine facial wrinkles[20], but I did not find any academic study that looked at the eye area alone this time. “Eye Volnewmer” is the name commonly used in Korea for Volnewmer treatment of the eye area, and I could not confirm the specifications of its eye tip in the manufacturer’s materials.
• I did not find any study that directly compared the two devices around the eyes. With radiofrequency, how much heat reaches the skin depends on the device design, the energy, and the skin-contact conditions[15], so it is hard to apply one product’s research results directly to another product.

What the research shows:

• In a multicenter study (no comparison group) that followed 72 people for 6 months after one treatment with the eye tip, upper eyelid tightening was observed in 88% and lower eyelid tightening in 71–74%. However, for most people the improvement was up to around 25%, and only some people showed larger changes[21].
• In a study that followed 20 people for 6 months, the researchers rated the effect of reducing eyelid skin as “mild to moderate at best”[22].
• In 14 Asian people (no comparison group), the eyebrow position rose by about 1.2–1.5 mm on average, and the researchers stated that the change was smaller than with surgery[23].
• In a study (no comparison group) that followed 86 people for 6 months after one radiofrequency treatment delivered from the skin surface, wrinkle scores improved by 1 point or more in 83.2% of the eye areas when photos were assessed blinded. However, the treating physicians, looking without the before-treatment photos, saw improvement in 28.9%, and half of the participants said they were satisfied[24]. This means the size of the effect can look different depending on how it is assessed.
• In a randomized study of 30 women aged 60 or older that compared the two sides of the face for wrinkles around the eyes, microneedle radiofrequency increased collagen in the skin more than needles alone did, and the researchers reported that improvements in wrinkles and elasticity were also greater[9].

Best suited for: People with mild sagging and fine lines around the eyes who want a treatment with a low recovery burden. Improvement usually appears gradually and is moderate[15]. If sagging is noticeable, keep in mind that the change is smaller than with surgery[23].

Recovery and side effects:

• The recovery burden tends to be low[15]. In a study that treated the eye area with a different monopolar radiofrequency device, redness and swelling lasted about 1 to 3 days[25].
• Because it uses heat, burns, blisters, and scars can occur[18]. In a 2003 study, second-degree burns occurred in 0.36% of the radiofrequency pulses delivered, and 3 people still had small scars after 6 months[24]. This study used equipment from more than 20 years ago, so it cannot be assumed to be the same as current equipment.
• When the eyelids or the area around the eyes are treated, plastic eye shields or protective lenses are used to protect the eyes[18, 22]. In the 20-person study, 1 person had a tiny injury to the surface of the cornea, which healed within a few hours[22].

Skin Boosters: A Look by Type

Skin boosters come in several types based on their ingredients. Even though they are all injections into the skin, in Korea they are regulated in different categories depending on the product: drugs, medical devices, or human tissue[26]. Few studies have directly compared types or products, and the products and assessment methods vary, so there is not yet evidence to say that any one type or product is the best[15, 27]. The product names below are representative examples to aid understanding.

Here is the evidence for each type.

① Hyaluronic acid (“mulgwang” injections): The idea is that hyaluronic acid injected in small amounts into the skin draws in water and improves skin texture and elasticity[28]. In a study in which 30 people received non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid on one side of the face and saline on the other side, the depth of fine crow’s feet lines decreased more on the hyaluronic acid side. However, the manufacturer was involved, and measurements were taken only 10 days after the last treatment[10]. In a randomized study in which 24 people received toxin on both sides around the eyes and then a hyaluronic acid skin booster on one side only, patients rated the crow’s feet lines as milder on the side with the added booster at 3 and 6 months, and no one’s wrinkles disappeared completely. Injection-site pain occurred in 29.1% and small bruises in 12.5%, and all went away within 2 weeks[29]. A systematic review that gathered 13 facial studies concluded that the level of evidence is low because most were not randomized studies, that bruising, swelling, and tenderness usually settle within 2 weeks, and that lumps can rarely form[28].

② Polynucleotide (PN, e.g., Rejuran i): PN is described as stimulating fibroblasts, the cells that make collagen, to increase the production of collagen and elastic fibers[27]. Rejuran-line products are classified as medical devices in Korea[26]. Among studies of PN as an ingredient, a randomized study in which 27 people received PN on one side around the eyes and non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid on the other side found that the overall degree of improvement was similar on both sides, while the improvement rates for elasticity, hydration, and skin texture were higher on the PN side[30]. In an observational study (no comparison group, using a PN product other than Rejuran) in which 42 people received PN injections under the eyes and at the outer corners of the eyes, the effect was greatest at 3 months after two injections and decreased slightly by 6 months. Apart from mild swelling, discomfort, and slight bruising, there were no lumps or bluish discoloration showing through the skin[31]. However, a systematic review that gathered 9 PN studies rated the quality of the studies as low to moderate[32], and long-term safety data for the eye area are lacking. PN also has almost no ability to add volume, so if hollowness is your main concern, PN alone may give only limited improvement[27].

③ Human acellular dermal matrix (hADM, e.g., Re2O, CellREDM): In this method, the dermal matrix that remains after cells are removed from human skin (the base structure of the skin, such as collagen) is made into fine particles and injected[33, 34]. In Korea, Re2O is regulated as “human tissue,” not as a medical device or a drug[26, 33]. There is one randomized study that compared Re2O with a hyaluronic acid skin booster on the two sides of the face. However, it followed only 20 people for up to 20 weeks, compared several measures separately without statistical adjustment, and the test product contained hyaluronic acid, so it is too early to judge its effect. Apart from temporary redness and mild swelling, there were no serious side effects[33]. CellREDM is also introduced as a product that uses hADM[34], but this time I could not confirm its clinical studies or its regulatory category in Korea.

④ Atelocollagen (e.g., LAETIGEN, Collarejeu): In this method, purified collagen is injected into the skin in an attempt to replenish collagen. LAETIGEN is introduced as a collagen tissue filler based on type I atelocollagen[35]. I did not find clinical studies of either product this time; the studies below are of collagen products from other countries. In Korea, there is a study that compared atelocollagen from pigs and from cows for nasolabial folds (the lines from the sides of the nose to the corners of the mouth)[36]. A randomized study of 40 people found that the group that received toxin together with bovine collagen around the eyes had better results than the group that received toxin alone, but it was not a study of the effect of collagen by itself[37]. In a study of 20 people who received porcine collagen under the eyes, the remaining effect dropped to about 45% at 8 weeks and about 17% at 12 weeks[38]. A case report of lumps that formed after cross-linked collagen was placed under the eyes noted that treatment is difficult because, unlike hyaluronic acid, there is no enzyme to dissolve it[39].

⑤ Platelet-rich plasma (PRP): Your own blood is spun in a centrifuge to obtain a platelet concentrate, which is then injected. Growth factors from the platelets are described as stimulating fibroblasts and helping collagen production[40]. A systematic review that gathered studies on the eye area concluded that the evidence is limited and inconsistent, and that PRP has more evidence for pigmentation around the eyes than for wrinkles. Side effects were temporary, such as swelling, redness, and bruising, and there was 1 case of fainting during treatment[40]. Another systematic review that gathered 26 studies also found that objective improvements in wrinkles and skin texture were mixed[41]. Another limitation is that the way the blood is prepared differs from study to study, which makes the results hard to compare[40, 41].

If Hollowness, Not Wrinkles, Is the Problem: Fillers

How it works: When the area under the eyes looks hollow and shadowed, the problem is not fine lines but a loss of volume[4]. Hyaluronic acid filler fills in the lost volume and reduces the shadow. Filler is the basic option for adding volume, but its ability to improve skin texture is not strong[27, 1].

Best suited for: People with mild hollowness, good skin condition, and little lower eyelid sagging or fat bulging[4].

Side effects and cautions:

• Under the thin skin below the eyes, filler may show through with a bluish tint, or swelling may occur[27, 42].
• Rarely, filler can block a blood vessel[42]. If a blood vessel leading to the eye is blocked, it can show up as decreased vision, a drooping eyelid, or problems moving the eye, and it is an emergency in which every minute counts. With hyaluronic acid filler, the most important step is prompt treatment with the enzyme that dissolves it (hyaluronidase)[43].
• That is why it is best to get it at a clinic that knows the anatomy under the eyes well and is prepared to treat complications right away if they happen[44].

In These Cases, See a Doctor Before Choosing a Treatment

Get an examination before you decide on a treatment.

• If fat under your eyes bulges out or your lower eyelid sags: In these cases, surgery may be a better fit than fine-line treatments or fillers[1].
• If you are not sure whether the darkness under your eyes is from wrinkles, hollowness, or pigment or blood vessels: There can be several causes, and treatment differs depending on the cause[1].
• If you usually have dry eye, or your skin tends to leave dark marks after treatments: Be sure to mention it beforehand when the type and intensity of treatment are being chosen[3, 12].

After a treatment, contact the clinic or get medical care right away if you notice any of the following.

• If your vision becomes blurry, your eyelid droops, or your eye does not move well after filler: Tell the place where you were treated immediately and get emergency care[43].
• If you have trouble swallowing, speaking, or breathing within a few hours to a few weeks after a toxin injection: Get medical care right away[3].
• If your eyes stay dry, sting, or feel uncomfortable after a toxin injection: See a doctor to have your eyes checked[3, 7].
• If the treated area turns darker after a laser treatment: Do not try to fix it on your own. Tell the place where you were treated and talk it over with them[12].

Take-home messages

1. Choose an under-eye fine-line treatment based on the type of wrinkle. Check your face at rest, when you smile, and whether there is hollowness.
2. For crow’s feet lines that form when you smile, consider botulinum toxin. The effect is temporary, and injections in the lower eyelid need extra caution.
3. For fine lines visible even at rest, consider fractional laser, eye-area radiofrequency, or skin boosters. In Asian skin, watch out for pigmentation after laser treatment.
4. Eye-area radiofrequency has a low recovery burden, but improvement appears gradually and is moderate. Note that most studies were done with one product (the Thermage eye tip).
5. Skin boosters, such as hyaluronic acid, PN, hADM, atelocollagen, and PRP, differ by type in how they work and in their evidence. Most studies are small and short, and comparative evidence that any one type or product is the best is still lacking.
6. For hollows under the eyes, consider filler when you are a suitable candidate. If fat bulges out or the eyelid sags, a surgical consultation comes first.
7. Vision changes or a drooping eyelid after filler is an emergency. Get in touch right away.
8. Results and recovery vary from person to person. At your examination, decide together based on your type of wrinkle, skin condition, and schedule.

References

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